To polish shoes, remove the laces, brush off dirt, wipe with a damp cloth, apply cream or wax polish in the matching colour with a soft cloth, leave it for a few minutes, then buff with a horsehair brush and a clean cloth. Do not use wax polish on suede or patent leather. Polish every few wears to keep leather supple.
A good pair of leather shoes can last for many years, and polishing is the single best thing you can do to look after them. It cleans the leather, feeds it so it does not dry and crack, restores colour and gives that smart shine that finishes an outfit.
This guide covers the tools you need, the steps, the difference between cream and wax, how to polish different types of shoe and the mistakes to avoid. It works for dress shoes, brogues and leather boots.
What you need to polish shoes
Choose a polish that matches the colour of your shoes, or use neutral polish if you are unsure. Test it on a hidden area first.
- A horsehair brush for buffing and a softer brush for dirt.
- Cream polish, which nourishes and restores colour, and wax polish, which adds shine and protection.
- Soft cotton cloths or old T-shirt scraps.
- A small dauber or cloth for applying polish.
- Shoe trees to hold the shape.
- Leather cleaner or a damp cloth for removing dirt.
Step-by-step: how to polish leather shoes
- Remove the laces so you can reach the tongue and sides.
- Brush the shoes all over with a soft brush to remove dust and mud, paying attention to the welt, which is the join between sole and upper.
- Wipe with a slightly damp cloth, or use a leather cleaner for heavier dirt, and let the shoes dry for a few minutes.
- Apply a thin layer of cream polish with a cloth or dauber, working it in small circles over the whole shoe. Leave it for about ten minutes.
- Buff with a horsehair brush to remove excess and bring up a soft shine.
- For a higher shine, apply a thin layer of wax polish, let it dry, then buff again with a clean cloth.
- Replace the laces and insert shoe trees.
Cream or wax polish?
Cream polish contains oils and pigment that condition the leather and restore colour, which makes it the better choice for regular care and scuffs. Wax polish builds a protective, glossy layer and is used for shine and water resistance. Many people use cream first to feed the leather and wax afterwards for shine.
Using wax alone, over time, can build up a layer and dry the leather. A mix of both, with regular cleaning, gives the best result.
How to get a high shine
A mirror-style shine is built in thin layers. Apply wax polish to the toe cap and heel in small circles, let it dry, then add a tiny drop of water to the cloth and buff in circles. Repeat in thin layers, resting between each. It takes patience, but the result is worth it.
Avoid heavy, thick layers, which can crack and look clumpy. Our guide to cleaning leather and suede sneakers covers casual shoes.
Polishing different types of shoe
Brogues and dress shoes
Use a soft brush or old toothbrush to get polish into the perforations, and buff carefully to remove excess.
Leather boots
Use cream polish and a conditioner, which keeps the thicker leather supple. Waterproofing wax can be added for winter.
Suede and nubuck
Do not use cream or wax polish on suede. Use a suede brush, eraser and protector. See our suede shoe care guide.
Patent leather
Wipe with a damp cloth and use a patent leather cleaner. Wax polish will dull the shine.
How often should you polish shoes?
A good routine is to brush shoes after every wear, polish lightly every few wears and give them a full clean and polish once a month or when the leather looks dull. Shoes worn in the rain or on muddy ground need cleaning and conditioning sooner. Rotating pairs gives each a day to dry out and extends life.
Common polishing mistakes
- Polishing over dirt, which grinds grit into the leather.
- Using too much polish, which clogs the leather and cracks.
- Using the wrong colour, which stains the leather or leaves a mismatch.
- Using polish on suede or nubuck.
- Drying wet shoes on a radiator before polishing, which can crack leather.
- Skipping shoe trees, which let shoes crease and lose shape.
When shoes need more than polish
Polish cannot fix worn soles, loose stitching, cracked uppers or heels worn down on one side. See our guide to signs your shoes need repair, and our shoe repair service in Clapham, which covers resoling, heels and more. Bring your shoes to 180 Northcote Rd or ask for a free quote.
If your shoes have worn soles, deep scuffs or cracked leather, polish will not be enough. Our shoe repair team in Clapham can restore them. Bring it to 180 Northcote Rd or call 020 7738 2266 for advice and a quote before any work begins.
Local help in Clapham and south-west London
Elegance Dry Cleaners is on Northcote Road and looks after customers across Clapham Junction, Battersea, Wandsworth, Balham and nearby SW London streets. See everything we cover on our areas page, or ask about collection and delivery.
Frequently asked questions
How do you polish shoes properly?
Brush off dirt, wipe clean, apply a thin layer of cream polish, leave it, buff with a horsehair brush and finish with wax for shine if you like.
How often should you polish leather shoes?
Brush after every wear, polish lightly every few wears and do a full clean and polish monthly or when they look dull.
Can you polish suede shoes?
No. Use a suede brush, eraser and protector instead of cream or wax polish.
What is the difference between cream and wax polish?
Cream conditions and restores colour, while wax adds shine and protection. Many people use both.
How do I get a mirror shine on shoes?
Apply thin layers of wax polish, buff with a damp cloth in circles and repeat patiently.